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Old 09/08/2018, 08:29 AM   #1
Wandering
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Large Reef Stocking Without Quarantine

Hello fellow large reef owners!

I am setting up a 350 gallon display, and am trying to figure out how to go about fish stocking without having a quarantine system. I really don't have the space for the large 40g (minimum) tank that a tang would require.

Do you just take the risk of introducing something deadly with every fish addition?

Do you give new additions a freshwater (or other type of) dip?

Do you rely on UV?

I have also read that many reefs HAVE ich, it does just not show itself unless fish are stressed. So, have you seen ich but rely on heavy feeding to keep everything healthy?

I know this is a ich/disease post, I am not trying to beat a dead horse . I am just trying to have the absolute minimum lost of life as possible, as well as not endure a heart (and wallet) wrenching fish loss down the line.


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Old 09/08/2018, 10:05 AM   #2
ali1
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If you have a 300+ tank, you should definately have some QT setup and a disaster recovery plan.

Setting yourself up for failure if you think your DT is the only tank needed to successfuly sustain a reef. Most smart reefers will tell you its absolute minimum to have a 40g spare tank.

I have a 400g system w/ 75g tank on standby for quarantine or disaster scenarios.

In this hobby, assume odds are against you. If you truly love these beautiful specimen, take the time to QT every one of them to avoid killing them or worse- wiping out your entire livestock

Aside from killing your fish, the QT process is easier than tearing apart your 300g to grab every fish after infection. You would waste more time then you ever did and be watching an empty tank for 9 weeks biting your nails


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Originally Posted by Gogandantess

"I'm totally frustrated by this disease. My display has been fallow for 2 months now. If ich happened to mysteriously appear again, I'm giving up and going back to African Cichilds."

Last edited by ali1; 09/08/2018 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 09/08/2018, 06:23 PM   #3
Alfrareef
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I use the LFS quarantine tank, but have to admit ali1 has a point...


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Old 09/09/2018, 09:06 AM   #4
rvareef
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im confused, you have the space for a 350, but not a 40breeder? Post some pics of your setup. Im not sure if you plan on going corals, but the same potentially hazardous introductions without quarantine can happen with corals as well as fish.


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Old 09/10/2018, 11:04 AM   #5
McPuff
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Start the tangs small and you can use a 20 gal for QT. They don't require much space or equipment (pump, heater, filter). People often regret NOT doing a QT, but I've never heard of anyone that regrets putting fish through a QT procedure. I've done it both ways and QT is my only way forward.


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Old 09/10/2018, 11:15 AM   #6
Rover88
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Yo hey.

Only been doing this a year, and set up a 75 gallon with sump and found I 'didn't have room for a QT'.

Caught Ich. Suddenly found room. Had to tear tank down to get fish out. 80 days no fish in DT, while maintaining a QT.

Its a lot easier now to justify having the room for a QT. I'd highly recommend it, and my tank is tiny compared to yours.

PS: I kept a medium sized tang in 20 gallons of water for 80 days. You can too! Yes the fish won't be happy. Its a temporary unhappiness that is better then ich.


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Old 09/13/2018, 01:39 PM   #7
jezzeaepi
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You need a QT. Period.


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Old 09/13/2018, 05:10 PM   #8
Jason9488
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I have never had a QT and been doing this for 20 years.


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Old 09/13/2018, 05:40 PM   #9
ali1
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Originally Posted by Gogandantess

"I'm totally frustrated by this disease. My display has been fallow for 2 months now. If ich happened to mysteriously appear again, I'm giving up and going back to African Cichilds."
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Old 09/13/2018, 11:10 PM   #10
jezzeaepi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason9488 View Post
I have never had a QT and been doing this for 20 years.
You've had a 90 gallon tank for three months. That's got nothing to do with long term success of a 350.


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Old 09/14/2018, 12:20 AM   #11
lagatbezan
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I did the no qt thing years ago with my 180 and failed miserably. With Ich you "might" be able to manage it somewhat but keep in mind velvet is a lot more common nowadays and it is a super fast killer which can wipe out your entire rank within 24-48 hours. Not to mention other parasites like brook, flukes and Euronema. almost every lfs, online vendor and even distributors have one or more of these parasites in their systems where the fish gets exposed to along the way. It only takes one to make it into your display to cause a crash. If you want to enjoy your tank long term and not to lose livestock do it right and qt everything wet thoroughly before it goes into your display. That's just my person opinion. Congrats on the new tank


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Old 09/14/2018, 02:06 AM   #12
reefinmike
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I thought I could get away with setting up a new tank taking calculated risks regarding proper QT. I wasted 9 months worth of progress. I wish I just started with cooked or sterile dry rock and proper quarantine for both coral and fish. I tried cheating the first two tries but it came back to bite me each time. I am re starting my tank for the third and final time... the right way.

I bet a tank that big is worth the effort of quarantine.


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Old 09/14/2018, 06:17 AM   #13
CrayolaViolence
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I'll even throw in one more. Treat the fish in QT as if they are infected. Dip them, medicate them, etc. A fish who is immune or not showing visible signs of disease can be carriers and infect fish who might not have as strong of an immune system.


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Old 09/14/2018, 07:32 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by CrayolaViolence View Post
I'll even throw in one more. Treat the fish in QT as if they are infected. Dip them, medicate them, etc. A fish who is immune or not showing visible signs of disease can be carriers and infect fish who might not have as strong of an immune system.
This is so true!

The reason many of us are so insistent on QT is because we've tried the other route. I lost an entire tank full of beautiful angels, triggers, and tangs because of a no QT approach. After two years of great success I added one fish and within a week everything was dead. That makes you feel helpless and (more strongly) guilty for what happened to the fish. The community does not want to be jerks by insisting on QT... we are trying to help others avoid these terrible situations. A few months spent QTing fish is better than a possible year to rebuild another established system because you lost everything and had to tear it all down and start again. It also costs a LOT less to do it the right way.


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Old 09/14/2018, 07:45 AM   #15
CrayolaViolence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McPuff View Post
This is so true!

The reason many of us are so insistent on QT is because we've tried the other route. I lost an entire tank full of beautiful angels, triggers, and tangs because of a no QT approach. After two years of great success I added one fish and within a week everything was dead. That makes you feel helpless and (more strongly) guilty for what happened to the fish. The community does not want to be jerks by insisting on QT... we are trying to help others avoid these terrible situations. A few months spent QTing fish is better than a possible year to rebuild another established system because you lost everything and had to tear it all down and start again. It also costs a LOT less to do it the right way.
You are very correct. And I'm glad the seasoned reefers and fish keepers speak up


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Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef tank
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Old 09/14/2018, 01:23 PM   #16
Crusty Old Shellback
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Not saying to go this route.

I've had SW tanks since the mid '70's. Reef tanks since '90, and a 400G Natural Salt Water tank for over 10 years.

I've never QT'd anything.

I've had ups and downs.

In my 400G tank, I've had Ich show up on a new fish, but it disappeared in a few days. No other fish were affected. I've kept a Moorish Idol alive in that tank for over 4 years, Pair of Naso tangs over 7 years. They wound up dying because my skimmer and pumps failed and the tank basically ran out of oxygen.

I'm a firm believer from 10 + years experience of using NSW that there are things in that water that can not be duplicated. I've seen things happen in my NSW tank that I've never seen happen in other tanks. I believe that was one of the reasons I had success with my 400G tank with no QT. But I do not have any scientific data to prove it, only years of observations.


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Current Tank Info: Tankless for a while. RIP my 8+ yr old pair of Naso tangs, 4 + yr old Moorish Idol
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Old 09/17/2018, 06:37 AM   #17
McPuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty Old Shellback View Post
Not saying to go this route.

I've had SW tanks since the mid '70's. Reef tanks since '90, and a 400G Natural Salt Water tank for over 10 years.

I'm a firm believer from 10 + years experience of using NSW that there are things in that water that can not be duplicated. I've seen things happen in my NSW tank that I've never seen happen in other tanks. I believe that was one of the reasons I had success with my 400G tank with no QT. But I do not have any scientific data to prove it, only years of observations.
It would be great to have the ability to use NSW. I do believe that you see differences from artificial. How did you collect and transport it? Just filter it before using?


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Old 09/17/2018, 11:38 PM   #18
icerain29
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For me i usually add a little bit of prazi pro and paraguard when iím doing the acclimation, then a 6 mins fresh water dip. i run a 57w aqua uv unit, i think a strong uv always helps. Buy a healthy fish at the start, and buy them when they just reach the fish store.


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