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Old 01/16/2018, 09:25 PM   #1
winterpeg
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My 250g sump up and down issue new build

So have some questions

1. My pump is running max o a vectra m1
2. I have dialed in my BV so that my level in my sump is where it should be
3. Then 2 min later it desides to make the water level in sump higher
4. Not sure why
5. Then it goes back down and stabilizes then repeats

Note i have w air holes in my caps

Hmmm

Turning off pump and sleeping on it.

Oh I'm a newbie at a larger system. So pleae3 be nice... I have run small reef tanks but nothing this large just need some help

Ideas and suggestions

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Last edited by winterpeg; 01/17/2018 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 01/16/2018, 11:54 PM   #2
JUNBUG361
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Maybe be the pump is cutting in & out


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Old 01/16/2018, 11:56 PM   #3
HippieSmell
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Do you have an emergency drain for the overflow? If not, don't restrict the drain with a ball valve.

Also, the ball valve shouldn't dictate the sump water level. I'm a little confused on why you'd do that.


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 01/17/2018, 05:03 AM   #4
sbeason
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I would put a ball valve on the return line, not both drains from the tank. Restrict the pump on the return to control the water flow into your sump.


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Old 01/17/2018, 06:29 AM   #5
winterpeg
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Originally Posted by JUNBUG361 View Post
Maybe be the pump is cutting in & out
Not sure

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Old 01/17/2018, 06:30 AM   #6
winterpeg
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Originally Posted by HippieSmell View Post
Do you have an emergency drain for the overflow? If not, don't restrict the drain with a ball valve.

Also, the ball valve shouldn't dictate the sump water level. I'm a little confused on why you'd do that.
Yes I have one .

I'm a newbie at a larger system like this

Just need some guidance



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Old 01/17/2018, 06:32 AM   #7
winterpeg
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I would put a ball valve on the return line, not both drains from the tank. Restrict the pump on the return to control the water flow into your sump.
No sure what you mean

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Old 01/17/2018, 07:21 AM   #8
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No sure what you mean

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I think he is referring to using ball valves in the overflow drains to reduce flow to the sump, they are partially closed in the picture. I could see this potentially causing fluctuations. As for controlling the return pump with a valve, I think he is forgetting it is a DC pump.

You just want your drains fully open, sump water height is a function of how much water is in your display tank which is simply how far the pump can push water up the overflow in the display. Drains should be wide open, adjust the DC pump instead of valves and add/remove water from the system as needed, set the ATO there.


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Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA
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Old 01/17/2018, 07:32 AM   #9
winterpeg
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I think he is referring to using ball valves in the overflow drains to reduce flow to the sump, they are partially closed in the picture. I could see this potentially causing fluctuations. As for controlling the return pump with a valve, I think he is forgetting it is a DC pump.

You just want your drains fully open, sump water height is a function of how much water is in your display tank which is simply how far the pump can push water up the overflow in the display. Drains should be wide open, adjust the DC pump instead of valves and add/remove water from the system as needed, set the ATO there.
Then how do you reduce the noise in the lines they are noisy



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Old 01/17/2018, 07:33 AM   #10
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Plus my lines are now wide open

Is this to much water in my sump where my skimmer sits and then goes to the left chamber baffel20180116_205930.jpg

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Old 01/17/2018, 09:00 AM   #11
HBtank
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Siphon drains should be silent and backup durso overflows just need to be tuned.


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80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia!

Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA
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Old 01/17/2018, 09:03 AM   #12
winterpeg
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Siphon drains should be silent and backup durso overflows just need to be tuned.
How

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Old 01/17/2018, 10:39 AM   #13
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By the sounds of it your running a beananimal drain and you have both the main siphon and secondary running at the same time with the same volume running thru both.

your main siphon should be taking 99%,and your secondary should have a slight trickle. the emergency line should only kick in when you start the pump. For a been animal to start up correctly the main and secondary drain outlet should be no more then 1/2" below the water level in the sump. this allows the air to purge out of the siphon properly.

The other thing that will help is move up your secondary drain so that it is 1/2" higher then the main siphon. It helps the main siphon start quicker and IMHO it makes it easier to fine tune the main siphon.


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Old 01/17/2018, 10:44 AM   #14
outy
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Fist take the gate valves off that was restricting flow causing a syphon, or keep open as you have done.

Next turn down flow, you don't need much for a sump 300-700gph tops.

next have your return drain into sump cut about 1" under the water level and put a 90 elbow on each, that helps with noise. I never ran a return drain that deep which is causing part of your issues

That will solve most of your issues

Now I stuff foam in the top of the durso cap where your air hole is, that stops air noise. You don't have a lot of room, mine go higher then yours just so I can have more sound deadening foam added to the cap. Also filters the air. Needs cleaned yearly.


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Old 01/17/2018, 10:48 AM   #15
outy
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By the sounds of it your running a beananimal drain .
Looks like dual dursos with emergency overflow.

I run dual dursos similar, I just have separate overflow chambers. They work very good and always quiet.


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Old 01/17/2018, 10:54 AM   #16
outy
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Last thing, take off those metal SS hose clamps and use zip ties and change them during cleanings.

And clean up the cords just hanging around when you get a chance.


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Old 01/17/2018, 11:06 AM   #17
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Last thing, take off those metal SS hose clamps and use zip ties and change them during cleanings.

And clean up the cords just hanging around when you get a chance.
And pick your socks up off the floor. Do we live in a barn?


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 01/17/2018, 11:15 AM   #18
outy
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And pick your socks up off the floor. Do we live in a barn?
easy hippy, I like organization


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Old 01/17/2018, 05:52 PM   #19
winterpeg
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Last thing, take off those metal SS hose clamps and use zip ties and change them during cleanings.

And clean up the cords just hanging around when you get a chance.
Can I at least get salt in my sank before I do a cord cleaning LOL

You should see to the left with all my apex stuff piled on each other

Still need to mount all my gear

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Old 01/17/2018, 07:37 PM   #20
DesertReefT4r
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Dont use ball valves on the drains, there is no point and you want them wide open all the time anyways. Sump water level is set but the baffels and how much water you put in it. Ball valve should be on the return piping and you can control flow with the valve. I however recommend a proper sized pump for your sump needs and running the pump wide open unrestricted. DC pumps are nice because you can control the flow on them.


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Old 01/17/2018, 11:15 PM   #21
outy
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Can I at least get salt in my sank before I do a cord cleaning LOL


I'm ocd your killing me man!


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Old 01/18/2018, 06:26 AM   #22
winterpeg
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I'm ocd your killing me man!
Trust me I want a clean tank look



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Old 01/18/2018, 07:17 AM   #23
MarkW64
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Originally Posted by DesertReefT4r View Post
Ball valve should be on the return piping and you can control flow with the valve. I however recommend a proper sized pump for your sump needs and running the pump wide open unrestricted. DC pumps are nice because you can control the flow on them.
OP does have a DC pump. A Vectra. Set it to your desired flow -- no need for a valve on it. Sorry I can't offer much help on the return plumbing.


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Old 01/18/2018, 08:44 AM   #24
HippieSmell
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Originally Posted by DesertReefT4r View Post
Dont use ball valves on the drains, there is no point and you want them wide open all the time anyways. Sump water level is set but the baffels and how much water you put in it. Ball valve should be on the return piping and you can control flow with the valve. I however recommend a proper sized pump for your sump needs and running the pump wide open unrestricted. DC pumps are nice because you can control the flow on them.
You can use a valve on a beananimal drain, but a gate valve would be much, much better. Ball valve for on/off use, gate valves for fine tuning.


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 01/18/2018, 09:16 AM   #25
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Is the sump backwards? Hard to tell in the photos. Looks like your drain should dump into where you have the pump. If so, the pump might be running dry causing the up and down


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